Weird thing is that when I tested the tubes on my tube tester they tested at over 100 (using a Sencore Mighty Mite VIII), so I'm a little confuzzled by the fact that the one output tube is acting the way it is. If in fact it turns out the tube is bad how can I get a hold of a replacement? I know they are not cheap and I've already blown through my spending money for the next 2 weeks already, by buying this amp and the Bogen Amp. Once you verify you have proper bias voltage at the tube sockets you can bring the amp up to full power slowly using a variac, and perform a bias adjustment as your bringing the voltage up.Īs I mentioned earlier, there is a lot of information about how to proceed on this forum if you search the relevant model numbers.Ĭlick to expand.Yes, I think this is a late model 299-D because it does only have 3 can caps in it, and I'll take a look at those pages mentioned earlier in the thread. It would be a lot less risky to get a known good testing replacement for the red plating tube, clean the tube sockets, and check out the bias supply without power tubes installed. If it's a late series model it will have 3 electrolytic can caps (the early model had 4) You could also download a copy of the schematic it's available from the audiokarma library.įrom your description of the amp it appears to be a Late series 299D. A 233 is a slightly economized version that will be the same as a late model 299D electrically. There are lots of threads on this site concerning repair and overhaul of the 299d and kit version LK72B and model 233 that will have information relevant to the 299D. I'd suggest you do a little background research to educate your self on the model. Playing around with a tube that has history of arcing and red plating can get costly real quick.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |